In most cases, yes — proper attic insulation combined with ventilation correction eliminates or dramatically reduces ice dams. The goal is to keep the roof deck the same temperature as the outside air. If the roof stays cold, the snow doesn't melt unevenly, and ice dams don't form.
Insulation does most of the work, but it needs ventilation to back it up — soffit vents pulling cold air in, ridge vents letting it out, so any heat that does reach the attic gets flushed before it warms the deck. Most Twinsburg homes built before 2000 are well under the R-49 target, which is why so many of them dam every winter. We check insulation level, ventilation balance, and air leaks together, because fixing one without the others usually disappoints.
The target is R-49 — roughly 14 to 16 inches of blown insulation across the attic floor. A lot of pre-2000 Twinsburg homes sit around R-19 to R-30, which is why they dam year after year. But piling insulation on top of a leaky attic doesn't work on its own: if warm air is pouring up around can lights and the attic hatch, it still reaches the deck. Sealing those gaps first, then insulating, is what keeps the roof cold.
A couple of quick tells that heat is escaping: frost on the roofing nails in your attic, or your roof going bare in patches while the neighbors' stay snow-covered. Both mean the deck is warm. The upside is that the same insulation and sealing that stop ice dams also cut your heating bill every month, so the upgrade pays part of itself back each winter. We check insulation depth, ventilation balance, and air leaks together, because fixing one and skipping the others usually disappoints.